x18 custom jobber

[MotorHeadMike]

finally got back to AZ and was able to make some progress. Its been nearly a year since I started this. Here is my progress. Its just some redesigned frame bits inspired by many people on the site. Add some powder coat and paint. Still debating on an engine but I think I have to get some miles on this set up first.

[MotorHeadMike]

i have to get the pics of the after together. The one above was early mock up with things just tacked together

[briansX19haulsass]

nicethumbsup2

[MotorHeadMike]

1. Stock and fresh out of the box.


2. Stock frame pre-mod.


3. Frame alterations mocked up.


4. Swing-Arm mock up. I also added some flat steel to where the flat meets the round tube (under the shock area)

5. All the additional metal vs metal I took off. (+2lbs total) I can lose that off my body in a week so no worries there.

[MotorHeadMike]

6. Prepping front wheel for dual front brake mod, not sure if I will actually get around to finishing this one. (smashing out the magnets was lots of fun)

7. Rotor installed(wheels unpainted)

8. Wheels painted

9. Welding Day!!!!

10. Swing arm support underside.

[kevinneedsabike]

good i like it

[kevinneedsabike]

nice :clap: good gob:clap:

[MotorHeadMike]

11. Swing Arm welds C/U

12. Engine test fit in tack welded mocked up frame

13. Detachable frame front faring mount (I cant stand these things and I want to have this be a both a naked street fighter/ full fairing racer) so i mocked this up. Still gotta set the final welds in, but it works!

14. Detachable fairing mounts installed with rubber cushion jammers.

15. Final mock up before welding frame. (swing arm completed)

[MotorHeadMike]

1. Frame welded. Test fit pre powder.

2. Welds C/U

3. Clay Mock Up of tail v1 and tank mock up (thanks via Christmas Eve Turkey!)

4. Fun with clay!!! (not sure how its gonna work at this point) Ive worked with clay before, but never fiberglass. Which is coming soon.


5. Mocked up clay tank and tail cover. I used baking pans for the under side of both to get a rough shape. Than layered over clay and built it up over many days. I started with Styrofoam first, but this was a HUGE mistake. And a mess to boot. I think if I were to do this again I would dish out the real $ for some automotive modeling clay, as I hear its a lot more suited for this purpose and can be carved. Any ways....

[briansX19haulsass]

Holy shit! that is absoultutly nutsspeechless33

[MotorHeadMike]

1. Tank covered with aluminum foil and some PAM cooking spray(whats with all the cooking stuff) all set for fiberglass. The mess begins.


2. Tank fiber-glassed. 3 layers. I started with the loose fiber stuff. I was a royal pain in the A. I later learned on other pieces it was better to start with the cloth and finish with the matte. Live and learn!


3. Clay busted out of the fiberglass mold, and being recycled for next time!thumbsup2


4. Rear fender made from back of existing fender. This will ultimately be trimmed to a shorty style with a point. (Thanks brother in law for the idea) This was by far the easiest and best piece.. I guess with fiberglass, the part will be no better than the mold. With out extensive work that is.

5. Tail cover ready for fiberglass. All Pammed up. I should be known that I dont love this thing. It reminds me of a motocross helmet and an alien head and its not what Im really going for. This will ultimately house the rear tail lights, but I think Im going to remake one with out the lights and much much smaller.

[MotorHeadMike]

1. Rear Tail fiber glassed out, with the REAL project I need to be working on in background. Well I have to finish this little bugger first...


2. Boxed in swing arm? I figured hey, I'm making a mess, so why not. I think this is when I might have "jumped the shark (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=jump+the+shark)" on my project. Now looking at the swing arm all powder coated up, I can imagine covering one tiny morsel of it. So these will likely never get finished more than some trimming.

3. Garage Dog!

I have to get the rest off the camera, so those should be up in a bit.

[stuntnx7]

hells yea lookin good

[Niusiic[latvia]]

Dude, that's so sweet.
And about fiber glass swing arm boxing. I don't think it's actyally will be any good because steel is stronger than fiber glass IMO.

[swheels]

Excellent job!!!!rock2

Nils he already re-inforced the swingarm.thumbsup2

[Niusiic[latvia]]

Excellent job!!!!rock2

Nils he already re-inforced the swingarm.thumbsup2

Oh, sry :D My bad :D

[K-Pac]

damn. :welcome: to MidBike Nation

[MotorHeadMike]

Thanks!! Yeah the fiberglass boxing of the swing arm would be a cosmetic only mod. I was thinking something black like duc.1098 but I can cover the powder coat. Pics will be up soon. Here is some more of the mods in order.
I was just in the back thinking about how to re-purpose some old car parts floating around so I think I will start on that tomorrow.

1. All fiberglass pieces roughly shaped out. Now the hard part comes. Making it look good. Or so I hear. Im planning to at the very least finish the rear fender, tank. and maybe the swing arm since it snaps on and off with ease, it may be nice to change up the look quick and easy. (wait I take it back, there is a chain that has to run through there)


2. Swing arm covers C/U


3. Off to powder-coat. Thanks Arizona Powder Coating. Total price for frame/swing arm and fairing mounts $110. It was $70 for the paint which included sand blasting most of the paint off, and taping of the holes,etc. Then $30 for the clear gloss. I went with Sparkle Copper and Im very happy. I will be visiting that place again for sure!

[MotorHeadMike]

Finally the powder coat pics... and where I am currently with this project.

As expected my battery crapped out over the past year. Can anyone recommend a better battery that will fit the stock tray?
Thanks...

1. Color Swatch. Sparkle Copper w/ clear gloss


2. C/U Powdered parts (*note re-welded support plate for rearsets)

3. Engine in position. Really looking Ducati-esque at this point!

4. C/U new frame

5. Bike with unfinished fiberglass bits in place. (not feeling it too much)
I know I can do better. Any thoughts or opinions?

[K-Pac]

That frame looks really nice! For the battery what I did was, go to Pep Boys and get an exchangeable one. I got the 9 pound one, and found that it was small for the tray. So I hammered down one end and then put two L brackets and then drilled it onto the tray. Works like a charm. Also, when your there, get a trickle charger with your battery. I think the total of my purchase was like $60.

[FiveStarSky]

oh that color looks good, i was expecting some rusty brown penny color, looks very ducati ish, imo here, once you get all the glass shaped up, white would look pretty clean on that thing. 1 q though, are you going to make a seperate seat pan section or are you going to adapt your glass tail to the stock seat?

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

wow i just saw this, its amazing what you go through
beyond custom

[Shooter]

I love all that you have done so far and that color is stunning... but I'm still not trading ya!

[MotorHeadMike]

I love all that you have done so far and that color is stunning... but I'm still not trading ya!

Haha! Yeah I know. I have a LOOOOOOOONG way to go before you might even consider a trade. And now that I grow more attached I may not even think about it.


And to answer FiveStarSky question about the seat. Im currently using the stock one with some butterfly nuts on the back which makes it much easier to take off, but I do plan on a full custom one down the road. Not too far down the road cause my keister is killing already.

[MotorHeadMike]

wow i just saw this, its amazing what you go through
beyond custom

It was really this site and you guys (the members) that started this ball rolling. I've learned so much and tried to implement everyone's advice from their builds into own. So thanks NATION!

This is where we are today...

Im having some serious chain alignment issues. It doesnt sound good at all, but Ive shimmed the engine over as far as possible, and the wheel too, but still it sounds awful (like the chain is stressed) when I spin the rear.

Anyone had this problem and fix? Thanks

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i know, ill try to tell you when i get home

[MotorHeadMike]

i know, ill try to tell you when i get home

well i guess the chain tightness is paramount to alignment. Or at least pretty dang close. After realigning the rear and loosening the chain a touch she sounds much better.

NOW I have some serious bog issues. It feels like I can rev up to about 4500(this is a complete guess) and then it just dies. I had this issue with my pit bike and it was just some carb tuning that solved it, so thats what I will be doing today.

1. On a side note I found this engine on ebay evos150 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330407730561&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT) that Im thinking about scooping up. I have my pitbike with a 140cc pirahana style engine that is nice a torquey and may be a good donor for the x18. Any thoughts?
599$ feels like too much, or am I missing something?



I can spend a total of $1000 on this engine over the next year, but want something that will be quick out of the box, with the potential to be a monster down the road. I would rather not sink that into this 110cc since Ive heard lots about. I think I can sell it for like $125 and use that for new engine.


2. Also Im looking at some vapors. I cant stand not knowing anything about how the engine is running. Where do you guys get yours? Which kit do you get? I bought the generic USD fork one for my pitbike, and all I needed to do was send back the water temp sensor for a sparkplug temp sensor. Im hoping to avoid this so which one is best suited for out mids?

[Niusiic[latvia]]

well i guess the chain tightness is paramount to alignment. Or at least pretty dang close. After realigning the rear and loosening the chain a touch she sounds much better.

NOW I have some serious bog issues. It feels like I can rev up to about 4500(this is a complete guess) and then it just dies. I had this issue with my pit bike and it was just some carb tuning that solved it, so thats what I will be doing today.

1. On a side note I found this engine on ebay evos150 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330407730561&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT) that Im thinking about scooping up. I have my pitbike with a 140cc pirahana style engine that is nice a torquey and may be a good donor for the x18. Any thoughts?
599$ feels like too much, or am I missing something?



I can spend a total of $1000 on this engine over the next year, but want something that will be quick out of the box, with the potential to be a monster down the road. I would rather not sink that into this 110cc since Ive heard lots about. I think I can sell it for like $125 and use that for new engine.


2. Also Im looking at some vapors. I cant stand not knowing anything about how the engine is running. Where do you guys get yours? Which kit do you get? I bought the generic USD fork one for my pitbike, and all I needed to do was send back the water temp sensor for a sparkplug temp sensor. Im hoping to avoid this so which one is best suited for out mids?

600 seems bit overpriced!
And about vapors, I believe they got them from ebay!

[briansX19haulsass]

Here is a great kit TBolt is having a sale on. http://www.tboltusa.com/store/piranha-140cc-engine-fits-pit-bikes-and-other-minis-p-660.html?osCsid=af3b0d59e1ff82424fbeff89ad88833a call Vince tell him Brian sent you you may even be able to get to 310 300 maybe...... Its a great motor to build on as well.

The 150cc yx or 160cc yx are great motors as well just cost alittle more and if you get bored with the 140cc motor (really a powerrful motor) you can make it into a fire breathing beast as well. There are kits and mods that can make them still a great competor in the big bore market and racing of todays pit bike racing and motarding.

[swheels]

Take a look at this one:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Zongshen-155cc-XR50-CRF50-Pit-Bike-Engine-with-Oil-Cool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a051a4556QQitemZ1 80474234198QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
So far this motor has been relisted 2x.Heck if i wasn't getting ready to go and race next month,i'd pik it up just because.
There's also some yx 160's on ebay for $449.00 buy it now.But just ask the sellers if they are the new updated yx 160's.They are better than the first batch that came out.

On the vapor i got minds off of ebay from a private seller for cheap.So it was still in the box had very limited use so i didn't ask any Q's.So i don't know which on i have, LOL but o PBP cam2 mentioned in a thread which one was best suited for the mids. If i come across it i will post a link for ya,if you don't find it first.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i just cant think of any good reason to pass on the yx 160
i waited till the bugs worked out and the third bearing was added

[K-Pac]

Your going to need the vapor for ttr 125 zip hung speedo.

[MotorHeadMike]

Your going to need the vapor for ttr 125 zip hung speedo.

Ahh, that's the one I was looking at. Thanks for confirming.

As for the motor I think I'm leaning towards yx150-160. I have a 140 in my pitbike, and while I do love it compared to my 110, I would prefer to get something bigger I could swap from the mid into the pit for future supermoto dreams. Thanks for all the input. Ive got some research to do.

[RomanianRacer]

Two engines I would choose between is the yx160 or the Lifan 150. If your just gonna throw the bike around on the weekends and have fun with it, go with the Lifan, they are high build quality, but not many mod parts for it. If your planning on racing or just want a really powerful motor, go with the yx160. They got all kinds of crazy builds with it. Many big bore kits available, 4 valve and 2 valve racing heads, etc.

One thing though before doing the engine is the tires, suspension and brake setup you want to take care of. Get rid of the fish oil the forks come with and get some heavy weight fork oil, also I think swheels has a fork cap mod(write up!!!). You can get a pit bike shock, but would need to relocate the shock mount on the frame higher, which shouldn't be a problem for you cause you know how to weld, oh just realized you painted the framebanghead. XMRPros.com has a shock for the right height though. The tires suck on these bikes stock, you can't really get good grip leaning in the corners with them. You covered brakes, though!thumbsup2

Good Job, keep it going!

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

sorry i forgot to tell you
you should not have to shim the motor
the swingarm should have 2 plastic washer things as 'shims'
the wheel spacers are the key, the chain side must be spaced right, also the chain adjusters must be adjusted equally, i actually measure mine and get it within a milimeter of difference between the two
then i put jackstands under the pegs and spin the wheel, there should be no popping noise unless a part is brand new
i had a problem like that on my 18 and i ended up ruining a rear sprocket bc of it
yx 160 fo sho

[MotorHeadMike]

thanks Blitz! I actually lost one of those swing arm shims in a metal shop and had to build a new one. I will look into adjusting those next time I take the swing arm off. *probably when I get some new tires or rear shock.

SideNote**
Im thinking the next thing is to finish the dual front caliper set up. Anyone know if I can use all stock x-18 components on the other side with-out too much milling or fabbing of brackets? Or if the honda(2 piston) look alike units on akunar will fit into the existing mount point on x18?
thanks

[swheels]

thanks Blitz! I actually lost one of those swing arm shims in a metal shop and had to build a new one. I will look into adjusting those next time I take the swing arm off. *probably when I get some new tires or rear shock.

SideNote**
Im thinking the next thing is to finish the dual front caliper set up. Anyone know if I can use all stock x-18 components on the other side with-out too much milling or fabbing of brackets? Or if the honda(2 piston) look alike units on akunar will fit into the existing mount point on x18?
thanks I believe these calibers are a knock offs of one of the ktm mx bikes. Someone who remembers will chime in on this i'm sure. But Blitz did an excellent write up on the same dual setup like i use.Except his setup seems less complicated.thumbsup2

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

me and others have gone with the x6 calipers, others have had the akunar knock off ones work out

[MotorHeadMike]

yeah ive read through both of your threads numerous times, as well as nuttys, both here and on pbp/ but I havent found one yet where someone used x18 calipers on x18 forks, thinking this is the cheapest since i already have 1 side.

I think Im going to buy the same parts (brake + shocks) for the other side.
although i really lust after nuttys frond end assembly. Those USD forks have been on my to do list for sometime now. Just cant get myself to cough up all that dough. I think I can complete the dualies for another 60$

thank you for your replies!thumbsup2

[swheels]

I use the x18 forks for my setup,it's my triples that are different. The forks Nutty used are pretty cool and makes going duals easier in a way.But when it comes to tuning them.Not the forks you wanna have.To put oil in them you'll have to remove them and turn them upside down.thumb_down How they perform well i haven't heard anything about them.But i have a good idea though. Either way you will need another rightside fork leg which you can probably find on fleabay. Or at x18parts.com,i believe that is the site.

There is one guy that use to race Thelog32 was his screen name.He used both stock calipers.The only thing is on the leftside the caliper was facing forward. Heres some pics of his setup.

[MotorHeadMike]

Thanks for that S!.

interesting setup. Not exactly ideal, but gets the job done. I would think the staggered calipers like that would make braking a bit uneven. Did he ever say anything about that? Well I can at least get the other fork tube going and see about what calipers will work later.

also Swheels Ive heard of some people sending you their fronts for some type of overhaul or adjustments? Is this a service you offer? thanks

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

S does make pre-adjusters for the stock forks
i dont like the dual x18 caliper setup, those things suck, but you would think with 4 pistons they would be good

[The Nutty Professor]

Before "S" answers I can tell you what he's probably gonna say..."Offer service? Not no but hell no!!!" bluelaugh After his last go round with a set of forks I really don't think he's willing to go that route again. Am I right "S"?

As for the USD's they look good but looks don't translate to quick lap times. Yes they can be made to work fairly decent but at a severe cost. Meaning add a certain thickness oil then test then change the fluid level and test. Then try another grade thickness and test. banghead Actually through luck and a little bit of "I've done this before" I got it real close but I need to shim it for pre-load because making adjusters are out. On top of all this the clipons aren't right and I need to make a set that fit better. I could go on and on but I'll stop now rolleye0010

[MotorHeadMike]

[QUOTE=The Nutty Professor;46661]Before "S" answers I can tell you what he's probably gonna say..."Offer service? Not no but hell no!!!" bluelaugh After his last go round with a set of forks I really don't think.../QUOTE]


haha, well i figured i would ask, to be honest I havent gotten anywhere near the stock suspensions limit. Nutty you have the best looking front end( i dream about it sometimes), but if you havent worked out all the bugs yet(and it looks like you been working on that for at least a couple years) with your inginiuty im staying the hell away from that. I dont really understand suspension enough to go messing with internals, thats why I asked about shweels...

Im tryin to find a write up on what S does to the suspension, I see adjustable valves and what not but no mention of how to, but if its that much of a PITA than I will definitely put my money into something else.
What happened with the last setup?

I think I will be ordering those Honda look alike units off of Akunar. 2 less pistons per clapper is less to go wrong. Unless I can find some cheap x6/7 units to swap in. Thanks guys!

oh side notee** anyone order from akunar in the past year? Im sketchy about ordering from so far away.thanks

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

S isnt a write up kinda guy, his forks are worked
he was nice enough to make me some caps with built in adjusters and i cut the spring about half a inch and used a few tablespoons of 90weight oil
it works good for me, i can go fast on this system and thats the bottom line
S has a special system that he likes, he is fast on it and it works for him
i agree that nutty has the sexiest front end, i would do the work for it but since it isnt worth it apparently i will stick with what i have
here is some in stock
http://www.fancyscooters.com/item00738-scooter-part-Hydraulic-brake-FX812B-front.html

[swheels]

Yep i suck at write ups. i usually work kinda fast so i end up leaving the step by step phase very vague. So it kinda becomes worthless to anybody.

These chinese forks are so in-consistent,it's hard to come up with a sure fire way to get them spot on everytime.Some forks have a hex shape at the top so you can use a big allen wrench to help take them apart.Then some of the of them are round at the top and stubborn.Iv'e been trying make simple drop in mods.But with the current forks i'm experimenting with is kicking my Amoon1
So i'm back to the drawing board.banghead

The simple solution is preload adjusters and heavier weight oil.

Then i came up with this setup see pics. This setup fork brace/lower shock mount see so really work out for me.Because this allowed me to tune the bound and rebound of the forks. By using the adjustable MTB shock as an external damper cartridge.The brace that wrap around the fork legs is a 1 piece strip of alu.Then i added another piece through the center to keep the brace from twisting or collapsing under loads. I have came up with a top mount setup for the x18/15 and so on lower triple yet. This has been my sorta secret setup.LOLAfter watching some bits and pieces of video from the Dublin race last year.My buddy Herbert was running spacers in his forks with the heavy weight oil.That stiffened up the frontend pretty good. From what i've noticed from the vids.With the setup i'm running now(see pics) it look like i could charge up to the turns and just throw my bike in faster than he could.



I was trying to work with a company to get this develope for these bike because it would have been an easier solution to the frontend.But the company had some other issues to deal with. I'd just hate to see a company like PBU take this idea.Then end up chargin people an arm/leg and a kidney for the setup.HUMMMM Maybe Sdscooters would be interested.thinking_smilie I have video on how it works i can post later.
The preloaders are very simple for me to do.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

hey is that ram air in the nose for the radiator? good thinkin

[MotorHeadMike]

that is a crafty solution! Your bike really looks like a 1:1. Incredible!

Thanks for the post!

[X7rocks]

Yep i suck at write ups. i usually work kinda fast so i end up leaving the step by step phase very vague. So it kinda becomes worthless to anybody.

These chinese forks are so in-consistent,it's hard to come up with a sure fire way to get them spot on everytime.Some forks have a hex shape at the top so you can use a big allen wrench to help take them apart.Then some of the of them are round at the top and stubborn.Iv'e been trying make simple drop in mods.But with the current forks i'm experimenting with is kicking my Amoon1
So i'm back to the drawing board.banghead

The simple solution is preload adjusters and heavier weight oil.

Then i came up with this setup see pics. This setup fork brace/lower shock mount see so really work out for me.Because this allowed me to tune the bound and rebound of the forks. By using the adjustable MTB shock as an external damper cartridge.The brace that wrap around the fork legs is a 1 piece strip of alu.Then i added another piece through the center to keep the brace from twisting or collapsing under loads. I have came up with a top mount setup for the x18/15 and so on lower triple yet. This has been my sorta secret setup.LOLAfter watching some bits and pieces of video from the Dublin race last year.My buddy Herbert was running spacers in his forks with the heavy weight oil.That stiffened up the frontend pretty good. From what i've noticed from the vids.With the setup i'm running now(see pics) it look like i could charge up to the turns and just throw my bike in faster than he could.



I was trying to work with a company to get this develope for these bike because it would have been an easier solution to the frontend.But the company had some other issues to deal with. I'd just hate to see a company like PBU take this idea.Then end up chargin people an arm/leg and a kidney for the setup.HUMMMM Maybe Sdscooters would be interested.thinking_smilie I have video on how it works i can post later.
The preloaders are very simple for me to do.

love it S seems like a vary enginuetive (sp) design there.

[swheels]

hey is that ram air in the nose for the radiator? good thinkinI was gonna do it then said screw it.bluelaugh It actually turn out to be a better spot for onboard camera footage.

that is a crafty solution! Your bike really looks like a 1:1. Incredible!

Thanks for the post!Hey thanks.

love it S seems like a vary enginuetive (sp) design there. It wasn't hard to do. I did have to remove any thing from the bike to install this setup.Fairings and all stayed on.thumbsup2
Here's a video i did rigt after i finished the setup. Hey sorry for jacking your thread.:jacked:
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t74/s2wheels/?action=view&current=100_2103.flv

[MotorHeadMike]

thanks for all the info guys!!

Update. (this also my to do list since I keep losing track of them in the garage)

1. complete dualies in front -much easier said then done (forks ordered looking for top adjusters)
**need to order x7 clappers still or maybe some cr/xr/kx 50s** splitter or double banjo bolt.
2. install vapor+dash with indicator (ordered)
3. clean up wire harness (hide somehow)
4. new battery (ProStart 5lb purchased)
5. key switch install into tank (see#3)

engine is on the back burner. I blew my budget. Will wait till next year to go faster. Just gonna finish what I started for now

ugh what a waste of a some good money bluelaugh

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

not a waste, if done right a good mid will retain value plus be slick as sheet
and hey doing the safe stuff is better than doing the go-fast stuff anyway

[MotorHeadMike]

Got started on my fork cap pre-load adjusters tonight(courtesy of swheels idea). Its easy in theory, but tough in practice. Getting a straight hole through that top bolt isnt easy. I am using the drill press and it flexes as i drill so its not very straight.

First one is almost done and Im a couple millimeters off center at the bottom. Im going to tap this thing and see how well it works before starting the other side. I do have more forks on the way so I can screw up 1 more time!

Now when everyone says "add" some heavier weight gear oil, do i drain the existing oil and replace to same level? Or just dump some into the existing oil?

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

drain, then add a few tblspns of oil, put together and give each shock the bounce test, add if necessary

[MotorHeadMike]

thank you blitz.! What size bolt you have in there? I was thinking something in the 8mm range.

[Unproracer]

thumbsup2 That's sweet man, i wouldn't mind feeling that. Bet its better then the factory equipment though. Good to see your still tinkering swheels.

-Motorhead : i like the build man, the reinforcements are nice! I've been down a very long path of independent "re-fabrication" with this bike. If you dont mind, id like to offer my advice.

IMO the most effective and actually inexpensive mod you can do for the x18 forks is simply clean up the dampening rods and replace the fluid. I've taken apart 2 sets of forks. Both of them had mismatched internals, half ass'ed machine work and garbage fluid in them. Took the best two dampening rods, ran a drill down the center, not to oversize but to remove the ledge inside and make it one consistent inside diameter, matched the size of the rebound and compression holes, chamfer all the orifices. All stuff that by the looks of it, you'd have no problem doing.

Adding preloaders and thicker fluids will make a difference but nothing "fixes" the basic function of the fork. If the dampening rod cant flow fluid without drag and restriction, or evenly, thicker fluid is not going to really help.. Plus it takes like 2 hours and 20 bucks in materials.

Personally i don't agree with heavy oil being used in anything but harelys and differentials. The suspension is to keep your tires contacting the ground, a thinner fluid will allow the dampening rod to travel quicker allowing the tire to maintain contact.

I also believe the bikes stance has much to do with why people try to stiffen springs and fluids. Under braking, the bikes "attitude" will effect the front end a lot. I flipped my x18s triple trees upside down to lift the front end up, not to mention changed the rear swing arm angle and shock perches to be much less sever then the factory. On the brakes, my front end doesn't dive hard, chatter, or slip. When i roll on the gas, the rear doesn't dramatically lift, chain pull maintains proper tension, rear suspension stays within its sweet spot range. These are all mods you seem to be capable of.

Btw im running a full sized master cyld. and single china street scooter front brake on a stock x18 rotor & rim. Its slightly overkill in size but was way cheaper then buying nice duals, new discs, full size master, xtra long banjo bolt, dual lines, $, $, $, etc... I just got the brake system from a wrecked scooter for $25 and paid 60 bucks to have a steel braided brake line made. It runs dirt bike brake pads that cost 40 bucks a set(only need one set!!) and it stops the 150lbs bike and my 200+ lbs ass(in gear) at the end of the a straight away ment for motards and karts, with a pretty light lever pull. twocents

Nice build though, good luck with it! and :welcome:

oh when you add the oil, since we have no official spec, a inch or so above the dampening rod AFTER being bleed of air, is probably a pretty safe range.

[MotorHeadMike]

id like to offer my advice.

IMO the most effective and actually inexpensive mod you can do for the x18 forks is simply clean up the dampening rods and replace the fluid. I've taken apart 2 sets of forks. Both of them had mismatched internals, half ass'ed machine work and garbage fluid in them. Took the best two dampening rods, ran a drill down the center, not to oversize but to remove the ledge inside and make it one consistent inside diameter, matched the size of the rebound and compression holes, chamfer all the orifices. All stuff that by the looks of it, you'd have no problem doing.
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Well Im still waiting on some parts to get this project moving along again. In the meantime...I decided to take unpros advice and rework my dampening rods. This is my first time cracking open a fork tube and its proving to be a challenge. Unpro may have over estimated my skills.bluelaugh

Ok so the fork it out. Spring it out. Top and oil is out. I removed the dust seal and the retaining clip below it. The oil seal (maybe) which is below those 2 items doesnt want to come out. Neither does the bolt at the bottom of the fork. Its my belief (after reading a few articles on dirtbike forks) that this screw holds the damper rod in place. While I cracked it lose, the sucker just keeps spinning. I also tried capping the fork tube and pushing down fast and hard to pop out the oil seal. No Luck. I read something about stabbing it and removing it. If I do this I know I will butcher the thing and need new ones. There HAS to be a better way. Help!


How do I get this dang damper rod out? Please.

[Unproracer]

Well Im still waiting on some parts to get this project moving along again. In the meantime...I decided to take unpros advice and rework my dampening rods. This is my first time cracking open a fork tube and its proving to be a challenge. Unpro may have over estimated my skills.bluelaugh

Ok so the fork it out. Spring it out. Top and oil is out. I removed the dust seal and the retaining clip below it. The oil seal (maybe) which is below those 2 items doesnt want to come out. Neither does the bolt at the bottom of the fork. Its my belief (after reading a few articles on dirtbike forks) that this screw holds the damper rod in place. While I cracked it lose, the sucker just keeps spinning. I also tried capping the fork tube and pushing down fast and hard to pop out the oil seal. No Luck. I read something about stabbing it and removing it. If I do this I know I will butcher the thing and need new ones. There HAS to be a better way. Help!


How do I get this dang damper rod out? Please.


Heh, i underestimated probably. These forks are really simple, infact you may have removed the seals prematurly. The shiny tube is head into the bottom of the fork by the dampening rod. If you reassemble the fork w/ just the spring in it, and put the cap on, it might hold the damping rod in place enough that you can remove the bolt at the bottom of the leg. If its not, take it to a automotive shop and pay some tech 5 dollars to use an impact gun on it, thats the easiest way.

So recap, impact gun to remove bolt at bottom or try to hold the dampening rod top in place. The seals dont need to be removed at all, nor does the clip up top. Once you get the dampening rod bolt out, the upper tube will slide out with he dampening rod attached to it. Examine the rods, they will probably have different hole counts size, etc.

[Blitz$M.Inc.$]

i think i just stuck a screwdriver in the inside to hold the part in place then unscrewed the bolt from the bottom, i did mine at work so i forgot exactly how i did it

[MotorHeadMike]

I always forget that I have an impact gun. banghead

got it all set up for tomorrow. thanks guys!